青年非洲设计师从过去中塑造其服装设计 分享到
Young African Designer Models His Clothes on the Past 2016-07-1450623

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Twenty-six-year-old Matthew Rugamba got his start in fashion trying to modernize the traditional “kitenge” loincloth common across East Africa.At his House of Tayo in Kigali, the Rwanda designer has expanded into African outfits and accessories with a contemporary twist.
26岁的马修·努刚巴开启他的时尚事业,努力将在东非极为常见的传统基坦卡纹样腰布赋予现代化意味。在其位于基加利的一家名家Tayo的店里,这个卢旺达的设计师将非洲的服饰和配饰进行了现代化的转变。
Rugamba says he is inspired by the looks of the 1960’s and the era of African independence,especially the styles of former Congolese Prime Minister Patrice Lumumba and the U.S. civil rights activist Malcolm X.
努刚巴说他受到了上世纪60年代的形象以及非洲独立时期的启发,特别是受到前刚果总理帕特里斯·卢蒙巴以及美国人权活动家马尔科姆·X穿衣风格的启发。
“If you look at the 1960’s, that time when the independence movement was picking up.That was the perfect blend of West and African style because you’d see Patrice Lumumba wear,you know, like the bow ties and suits, but you’d see him wearing like a leopard skin of some sort of printand I really - that sort of aesthetic really caught my eye, and I used that as a foundation for this brand.”
“如果你观察上世纪60年代,那一时期,独立运动高涨。正是将西方风格和非洲风格完美的融合,因为,你看帕特里斯·卢蒙巴的穿着,比如蝴蝶结领结和套装,同时却也穿着有某种印花的豹纹装扮。那种审美真的特别吸引我,因而我用这种审美作为品牌的基础。”
As Rugamba’s designs find bigger audiences abroad,he is determined to keep manufacturing local,producing all of his accessories through a Kigali-based women’s cooperative where seamstresses say they have a voice in design.
尽管努刚巴的设计在海外受到了更大的关注,他仍坚定地在本地制作,通过一家位于基加利的女性合作社生产所有的配饰,在这家女性合作社里,女裁缝们说她们在设计上也有话语权。
“When he first proposed the designs to us, we had trouble adapting and then we got used to it.He shares his ideas with us and accepts our ideas - eventually it became good.”
“当他最初把设计给我们看时,我们很难适应,不过后来就习惯了。他和我们分享他的观点,而且也接受我们的看法,最终变得很好。”
“The unique designs that House of Tayo brings will now go hand in hand with the enthusiasm people have for these new products, beginning with the loincloths.Recently, fewer people are buying imported, secondhand products.”
“Tayo的独特设计从腰布开始,会随着人们对于新产品的热诚齐头并进。最近几乎没有人买进口服饰或是二手服饰。”
Most of Rugamba’s high end designs are too expensive for much of the local market.As he looks to expand from East Africa to North America,he says his No. 1 goal is to make House of Tayo products more affordable for everyone.
努刚巴大多数高端设计对于当地市场来说还是太贵。尽管他着眼于将市场从东非扩张到北美,但是他说他的首要目标是让每个人都能买得起Tayo的商品。
Salem Solomon for Maurice Magorane VOA NEWS.
塞勒姆·所罗门为莫里斯·墨格瑞妮的报道口述。

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